Hola from Burgos, a relatively bustling stop on the Camino Frances. Today is a holiday, just in this one city. When a Spanish holiday happens, everything shuts. My plans on re-supply rather hit the buffers!
The day started at 6am, as it does everyday. I was walking by 7.30am through a cool, high altitude mist, eager to get to the retail oasis of a medium sized city.
I walked past an UNESCO site called Atapeurco, which hit fame when the oldest human remains in Europe were found. There was not too much to see as everything was closed at 8am!
I then tackled a hilly section, but thankfully it was borderline cold this morning, so made the hike up quite easy. The views were stunning from the top.
I had an interesting conversation with an older American guy at a cafe. He has walked many of the World’s long distance trails, and was full of good advice for a possible future thru-hike in America. Watch this space!
The day was relatively short, at around 21km (13 miles). The trail followed the Burgos Airport perimeter fence, and I suddenly felt my right shin. The ground was very hard today, with lots of tarmac.
Within 10 mins the shin discomfort became mild pain. I hobbled into the outskirts of Burgos and briefly considered a bus into town, but ploughed on.
The walk into the centre of Burgos was probably the worst part of the Camino yet. I chose the shortest option, and was rewarded with industrial dereliction, urban blight and unloved housing estates.
This is the official route too! It felt very sketchy, and I was glad to get through it. With a big backpack and sore legs, I’d have been an easy target. I don’t honestly think they should suggest this route at all.
I arrived at the huge municipal albergue at 1.30pm, and was allocated my usual upper bunk. Another pilgrim told me that if you look the slightest bit young, e.g. not in retirement, the albergue owners will tend to stick you on an upper bunk. Fair enough, but a little annoying when many of the lower bunks seem occupied by 20 somethings.
My main urgent re-supply was for sun block and compeed. Luckily I found a farmacia. No other shops were open, but food places were, so I did not go hungry.
Tomorrow, and for the next few days, I will cross the featureless meseta, where I hope some camping opportunities will present themselves.
Andreas and Katryn, the two friends from Poland who I walked with a couple of days ago, have just turned up. Andreas is limping, as many pilgrims are. We make a plan to start together at 7am, the walking wounded, up to the meseta.
Feet: Blister situ is kind of ok, more worrying are the shin splints. I was ok walking around Burgos this evening, so fingers crossed for tomorrow.
Food: Coffee x3, toast and marmalade, mushroom tortilla, bread, crisps, korean pot noodle, muffin, meat in a very spicy sauce, so much so, I had to buy an ice cream afterwards (kinder surprise flavour).
Feeling: Pretty good, about 1/3 done now. Must give those marathon days a rest for a while.
P.s. I am typing this on a mobile phone with no spell checker so please excuse any typos etc!